This Hiking Life

I’m a hiker, hike leader and outdoor writer.

I blog about my outdoor life, mostly in the Southern Appalachians and the Mountains-to-Sea Trail across North Carolina and our national parks.

I’m involved in outdoor and conservation issuEdgy in Montreat Wildernesses. I hope these blog notes will inspire you to go and explore the outdoors, wherever you are.

Hope to meet on the trail! Danny

In 1814, we took a little trip …

In 1814 we took a little trip
Along with Colonel Jackson down the mighty Mississip
We took a little bacon and we took a little beans
And we caught the bloody British in a town in New Orleans

Chalmette Monument
Chalmette Monument

I have been waiting for years to use these lyrics in a blog. This song written by Johnny Horton was the no. one song in 1959. I knew the song before I’d even heard of the War of 1812.

Ever since I started this National Park project, I knew that I’d be going to Chalmette Battlefield, part of Jean Lafitte National Historic Park.  Of course, the famous song that came out of the War of 1812 was the Star-Spangled Banner, of course. But the tune isn’t as catchy.

The Battle of New Orleans, January 8, 1815,  was the last significant battle of the war of 1812.  You know, that’s the war that’s almost forgotten in the U.S. but not in Canada. We declared war on Great Britain partly so we could conquer Canada and get rid of the British north of us. Well, it didn’t work but the war did seal our fate as a country. The United States was going to last. We weren’t going to revert to a colony. As the website says, American democracy triumphing over the old European ideas of aristocracy and entitlement. 

Chalmette Battlefield, south of New Orleans, is a quiet site. The battlefield is now a large, well-maintained lawn. There’s a one-and-a-half mile walking and driving loop which 20141024LAChalmettehouse 011Aexplains the strategy of both sides. On the loop, they’ve planted a British flag; after all we’re all friends now.

I climbed the monument put up by the Daughters of the War of 1812. The state actually built it and it was completed in 1908. On the site, we visited the Malus-Beauregard House, a Greek Revival plantation style house. The battle only took two hours and we spent a lot more time at the site.

20141024LAChalmetterefinery 015ABut there’s life around the battlefield site. In particular, we saw an oil refinery with its several smoke stacks. You can only buffer parks so much from the everyday and oil refineries are part of life in Louisiana.

We fired our guns and the British kept a-comin’
There wasn’t nigh as many as there was a while ago
We fired once more and they begin to runnin’
On down the Mississippi to the Gulf of Mexico

 

 

Jazz is everywhere in New Orleans

20141023LAJAZZsudan2AIt is impossible to separate New Orleans from Jazz. We’re here to visit the national parks in New Orleans. Usually, I go to the park visitor center, get my bearings, and walk through the actual battlefield or preserve. But at the New Orleans Jazz National Historic Park, the sites are everywhere. They publish a self-guided walking tour but we saw jazz and history in many other places.

First stop, Jackson Park where a pick-up band was playing for tips. A large statue of Andrew Jackson dominated the park. I stopped at the official New Orleans visitor center to ask them where the Jazz visitor center was located. The fellow behind the desk had never heard of it and pulled out his cell phone to google it. That was a test and he failed it.

2014LAjazzsudan3AWe walked up Conti St. with map in hand. Two friendly people going into their apartment said, “You look lost.”

“No, we’re looking for the Tango Belt at 1026 Conti,” and I showed them my map.

“There’s nothing there. We’ve been living here for five years, the woman said. “There might be a plaque.”

She was close. There was a sign for The historic parlor house of Madam Norma Wallace.” It had been a brothel and Madam Wallace was the last madam.

Basin Street Station was easy to find. The building had belonged to the Southern Railroad for over fifty years. It’s now a privately owned visitor and exhibition center. One section was devoted to the jazz gumbo that is New Orleans, a mixture of Africans, Europeans, Caribbeans, and Americans.

20141023LAJazzcongoAAt Armstrong Park, jazz thrives both in the sculpture and music. In the past, at Congo Square, slaves danced, drummed, sang and traded goods on Sunday afternoon. The dances included the Congo.

Now each Thursday, people set up food and souvenir stalls. A free jazz concert started at 5 pm and a crowd had already claimed their seats. an hour earlier. The Sudan Social Aid and Pleasure Club weaved their way through the park. We followed them. A huge statue of Louis Armstrong dominated the park.

Not a bad first afternoon in the Crescent City.

Up Pretty Hollow Gap Trail with Friends

Fall, 2014 in Cataloochee
Fall, 2014 in Cataloochee

Yesterday was the kind of day that poets wax, well, poetic about. The day started cool and a little foggy.

By the time I got to Pretty Hollow Gap Road in Cataloochee with Friends of the Smokies, the sun was out and I suggested to the group that maybe coats and jackets could be left in the car.

It was the end of the elk rut.

Friends of the Smokies Group - October 2014
Friends of the Smokies Group – October 2014

Yet a bull was in the woods, just off the trail as we started walking along Palmer Creek.

This hike made up for the rain-out that we had last Tuesday. Most of the conversation seemed to center on the beautiful day and how it was different from last week.

 

Maintenance Crew
Maintenance Crew

About half-way up, we met a group of Americorp members and a ranger. They were working on treating hemlock with chemicals to protect them from the hemlock wooly adelgid. It was a long way up to bring in all that equipment. Thanks, folks, for your hard work.

This hike didn’t have a destination.

We didn’t hike to a cabin, waterfall or view. We didn’t go as far as Pretty Hollow Gap; instead we stopped at a small watercrossing, had lunch and walked back.

Pretty Hollow Gap Trail in the fall
Pretty Hollow Gap Trail in the fall

Two guys scouted the area for good fishing spots and were impressed by the possibility of speckled trout in the creek. They will be back with their fishing gear.

Since the hike ended in the early afternoon, we walked over to the Beech School and Palmer Chapel. Definitely a better day than last week.

 

ATC membership drive in Charlotte

image_preview9Long distance hiker Hayne Hipp is the featured speaker at the Appalachian Trail Conservancy’s (ATC) fourth annual membership drive, “Relive the Legacy: The Appalachian Trail” at McGlohon Theatre, located at 345 North College St. in Charlotte.

The event, held at 6 p.m. on Sunday, Oct. 26, will also showcase the never-before-seen film “The Appalachian Trail: An American Legacy,” which tells the history of the Appalachian Trail (A.T.) using rare film footage and photography. All proceeds will benefit the ATC and its efforts to preserve the A.T.

Hipp, who, on the A.T., goes by the name “Reboot,” began section hiking the 2,180-mile long Trail in 2007. Throughout the next six years, he hiked portions until he completed the entire Trail in 2013 at age 73. “I talked about it so much that I had to,” Hipp said, when asked why he decided to hike the A.T.

In addition to Hipp, other speakers include Sam Henegar, director and producer of the event’s featured film; Mark Hanf, creator of the new board game “Thru Hike: The Appalachian Trail”; and Gary Barrigar, president of the Friends of Roan Mountain. Key ATC leaders, including Ron Tipton, executive director/CEO; Javier Folgar, director of Marketing and Communications; and Rich Daileader, board member, will also speak at the event.

“The Appalachian Trail Conservancy is excited to host this membership drive as it offers a unique opportunity to connect the community with this American icon—the Appalachian Trail,” said Folgar. “It offers participants a chance to hear the stories of the people who volunteer, maintain, hike and protect the Trail and interact with them in a new way.”

Limited-edition prizes like an ATC-branded ENO™ hammock and the new Thru-Hike: The Appalachian Trail board game will also be awarded throughout the evening.

Building Trail at 6,000 feet

From the MST off Waterrock Knob
From the MST off Waterrock Knob
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Lewis, Ann and Kate on the MST

October is supposed to be the best leaf-peeping time. Visitors drive up to Waterrock Knob on the Blue Ridge Parkway (MP 451.2) and look out at the outstanding scenery. Some walk the half-mile to what is the highest trail on the parkway. Little do they know the work that is going on just below them. Volunteers crush rocks, cut down trees, remove roots, and move rocks to build a small section of the Mountains-to-Sea Trail. Almost all are over 60 years old, many much older. Yet, they come out week after week to work on building this piece.
Yesterday, the Carolina Mountain Club Asheville Friday Crew finished a 2.2 mile section of the MST on the east side of Waterrock Knob. Kate Dixon, Executive Director of Friends of the Mountains-to-Sea Trail, and I were there to walk through the section and admire the amazing trail work. Ann Hendrickson, one of two women on this crew, walked with us from Waterrock Knob to Fork Ridge Overlook.

The crew plan was to split into three teams to do a sweep, repair, check some areas, and finish a step and rock section in the middle. Then they’ll pull out the tools and grip hoist and walk them down the cars. Next Friday, they’ll blaze the trail with the familiar white circles.

20141017WaterrockknobBobLindsey 053A
Bob Lindsey moving a rock

Building the trail required over 6,000 hours of work to cut through the rocks, roots, and trees so hikers can walk comfortably. It’s hard work to build trail at almost 6,000 feet above sea level. The season is short –May to October– and depends on the Parkway being open. In the winter, the freeze/thaw cycle plays havoc with the trail surface. Rocks pop out, trees fall and water and ice are all over the trail.

The crew leaves Asheville at 8 am and drives an hour to the work site. They work for five hours and are back at 3 pm, exhausted, muddy, and happy. The first concern is always safety. The second is to have fun so that the crew wants to come back week after week. And oh yes, they do want to get work done.

“The skill and artistry of the trail is extraordinary,” says Dixon. “So many visitors come to Waterrock Knob. Even if they don’t hike 1,000 miles across North Carolina, they can walk a mile and get a good feel for the trail.”