It may seem like a long time from now but a committee  has been working on the Appalachian Trail Conservancy 2013 Biannual meeting for a couple of years.

I'm responsible for excursions and I've started to plan and check out possible excursions.

This one is to Cherokee, North Carolina, in the Qualla Boundary, just outside Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

The first stop is at the Museum of the Cherokee Indian. It tells the story of the Cherokee People in a very vibrant way. Before visitors are let loose in the town, they might want to know about the history of the people here.

Across the street is the Qualla Arts Gallery, with exquisite and expensive native art. Cherokee has been criticized for having a lot of cheap stuff from China such as beads, moccasins and T-shirt. Well, this gallery is the real deal.

Before I head out to Mingo Falls, I have coffee at Tribal Grounds Coffee Shop. This is the best and really only place to have coffee and tea.

Mingo Falls is 120-foot waterfall right in the Big Cove area of Cherokee. I pass the educational complex, a beautiful building for all students in the town from Kindergarten to 12th grade. After about five miles, I turn into the Mingo Falls parking lot and walk up a long staircase to the falls. The water was really falling yesterday.

Lunch is at Paul's Diner. This is a traditional Cherokee restaurant which means fried bread with everything. If you want rabbit or bison, this is the place. But the restaurant is not about the food. It's a real Cherokee atmosphere with Indian themed pictures on the wall and over the fireplace. People sit at a bar in front of a large-screen TV. You can't buy an alcohol drink in Cherokee but that doesn't mean that patrons can't watch the big game anyway. A pie case rotates showing off the most lavish sweets around. And of course, most of the diners are Cherokee.

The tacky kitch is very visible in Cherokee because as they will tell you, this is what tourists want. So you'll pass
Pan F'r Gold, Native American Dance Shows and the Wigwam Motel. You'll also pass Harrah's Cherokee Casino and resort, the largest single tourist attraction in NC with 3.5 million visitors. But the excursion won't take you there because it's been vetoed by the Chair of the conference committee.

But even with all that kitch, you know that this is a real live town, not just a tourist attraction. There's a hospital, public transit system with large vans, a supermarket and apartments.

I discovered a bookstore, Talking Leaves which you won't find just walking around. The low building housing the bookstore is overshadowed by the KCF at the intersection of US 19 and US 441.This bookstore specializes in native American books and seems to have books about every tribe. It also had cookbooks, children's books and every book that Sherman Alexie has written. I bought a book on Indians and the National Parks.

This will be a real popular attraction, I'm sure.

How did Jennifer Pharr Davis walk the Appalachian Trail in 46 days? In one word, displicine.

But for more nuance and details, read Brew Davis' 46 Days: Keeping up with Jennifer Pharr Davis on the Appalachian Trail. The thin book is the blog that her husband, Brew Davis, kept while leading the Pit Crew that supported Jennifer on her trek.

Day by day, he describes her mileage and length of her walking day. On average she walked from 5 A.M. to 9 P.M. Now that's discipline. The average mileage, 46.4 miles, is amazing. Brew describes the logistics of meeting her at road crossings, giving her food and drink, helping her with any problems like icing shin splints - and of course, encouragement.

Just as amazing as her mileage was the food she ate. A moderately active woman should eat between 1,500 and 2,000 calories. Jennifer was supposed to eat 6,000 calories. So much of it came from fried foods - French fries, onion rings, hamburgers and cheap fast food buys. How did her stomach take in all of that?

Brew is amazed by his wife's feat. He keeps saying that "she's a freak of nature" and "what a woman". He was sidelined by a knee injury and couldn't walk much with her. But many other supporters did walk with her. She didn't run. I recognized Matt Kirk, a trail runner who set the record for the Mountains-to-Sea Trail last year.

Jennifer felt that she had pushed herself to the limit. So few people take the opportunity to do that. In her epilogue, she knows that someone will beat her record. But for now she is the fastest person on the A.T. I just wished I could see her picture on a Wheaties box.

Yesterday I took a trip to Jackson County for two purposes.

I wanted to go to Western Carolina University to see where the 2013 Appalachian Trail Conservancy Biennial meeting was going to be held. I had been to Western several times but now I was paying attention.

But the main reason was to explore Sylva as a possible trail town. When Sharon and I did the Mountains-to-Sea Trail close to Balsam Gap in Jackson County, we stayed on the highway and went into Sylva for dinner. Sylva could be a great MST trail town. To qualify as a trail town, in my opinion, the people in town must know about the MST. That will take a long time but it's never too early for hikers to educate business owners about the MST.  

If you're reading this as a Board member or part of the staff of Friends of the MST, rest assured that I know that the MST is not ready for trail towns. But I can speculate.

A trail town should be small so that residents get to see MST hikers as assets that bring in money and publicity to the town. Conversely, hikers get a good feel for the town. Sylva is less than three square miles and has only about 2,600 people.

But for most hikers, a trail town is all about services. Traditionally, long-distance hikers look for cheap food and a laundrymat - Sylva has both and more.

The old County Courthouse is on a hill overlooking Main St. See above. When the new Jackson County Justice and Administration Building was completed in 1994, the old building stayed empty until it was completely restored and reopened as a library complex in 2011.

I walked the 107 steps. But after I reached the top, I saw that the steps no longer lead to the entrance. Now you go into the building from the parking lot. A majestic entrance was lost in the redesign.

At the top of the stairs, a statue of a Civil War soldier guards what was the front of the building. That was the last major war in the U.S. before the building opened. Every town in the South needs a Civil War memorial. The complex includes a room for the Jackson County museum. When I got there at 12:35 pm, the room was closed. The museum was supposed to be open at noon. I asked several employees about the museum but all I got was a polite shrug.

Main Street is the classic small town street - a hair salon, a fly fishing shop, bicycle shop, an outfitter, and a used bookstore that benefits the library.

Massie Furniture Store carries 1950s furniture, the kind in my parents' apartment in Brooklyn.

A hardware store and Jackson General Store have clothes and dishes and everything else that's supposed to keep you from going to Wal-Mart. Peebles, a one-floor department store that seems to pop up in small towns, sells 1960s clothes. The craft gallery is closed for January and February. Free wifi is advertised everywhere. I need to go back to Sylva in the spring when it comes back to life again.

Up on a hill, City Lights Bookstore is very much alive and stays open until 9 pm. Under the bookstore is a coffee shop and cafe that also serves meals and beer and wine. It's the best place for coffee and goodies.

Mill Street parallels Main Street. By the railroad tracks, Bridge Park has a great looking picnic shelter. Wouldn't that make a good place to camp for long-distance MST walkers? The town would have to install a couple of Port-o-Johns. I don't think that's going to happen any time soon but hikers could stay at Blue Ridge Inn. It's a privately owned nonchain motel with rocking chairs and outside entrance to each room. Don't look for rave reviews on Trip Advisor.

Most of what a long-distance hiker needs is on US 107 including Ted's Laundromat and several supermarkets for resupply. All types of fast food are available on the highway. Two all-you-can-eat buffets, Ryan's and Jade Dragon, will fill up anyone.

But this may be an old-fashioned stereotypic view of long-distance hikers. Not everyone who does a long-distance hike walk is trying to do it the cheapest way possible.

Sharon and I wanted slow food. Lulu's on Main Street is the classic place.

But Soul Infusion further north has, well, soul. They offer over 60 different teas, served properly in a tea pot with boiling water. That's the infusion part. The soul is the 1970s funky decor - posters, signs, lei hung on the wall - and friendly people that will talk to you. The food is good and, yes, they serve beer and wine. 

So when the time comes, Sylva has a good chance to compete as a MST mountain trail town.

What is Jennifer Davis going to do after she became the fastest person on the Appalachian Trail? Go on tour and show others how to have a good experience on the A.T.

Jennifer (may I call her Jennifer?) is going on a winter Tour to help others get on the trail.

Her first stop is at Diamond Brand Outdoors on Sunday, January 8th from 1 pm - 5 pm

Here's what the press release says:

This comprehensive, one-day clinic will help aspiring Appalachian Trail hikers to better prepare for their time on the trail. Workshop topics will include: gear, trip planning, nutrition, physical and mental preparation. The class is geared toward aspiring thru-hikers, but is also recommended for those wanting to experience the trail through day hiking and section hiking.

What to Bring: Pen, paper, comfortable hiking shoes, warm clothes and snacks.

What's included: Snacks and a Diamond Brand coupon for 20% off your purchase (boats excluded)

Cost: $20/person, but buy a copy of Becoming Odyssa between now and January 8th and receive $10 off your ticket (a coupon will be provided)

Schedule:
1 pm - 2:30 pm: Hiking Overview and Gear Planning: Trail Specifics, Resupply Options, Nutrition, and Mental and Physical Preparation

2:30 pm - 4:30 pm: Field Trip. We will end the workshop by first making a quick stop by Ingles to talk about hiking foods and trail nutrition and then we will conclude with a 2 mile hike at Fletcher Park to physically test gear, and talk about training. This will give participants the chance to test new gear, learn some trail hiking tips, practice some beneficial hiking exercises, and GET OUTDOORS!!!

5 pm - until: Arrive back at the store before it closes to conclude workshop and allow participants to purchase gear.  Brew Davis will talk about his new book coming out about their hike, and Jen will do a talk to launch her tour.

The day will be topped off with a Meet and Greet with Jennifer and Brew where they will be talking about hiking as a New Year's resolution and will tell stories from hikes around the globe as well as share their favorite local hikes. This free event starts at 5:00pm at Diamond Brand and is open to all. The more the merrier.
For more information or to register, contact Jennifer at jen@blueridgehikingco.com.

I didn't think we would meet anyone on the A.T. today. We went on our last trail maintenance trip of the year. Lenny cleared water bars while I clipped and picked up more than the usual garbage. We found a blue Crock shoe and a cheap orange stake.

But then one orange clad backpacker came after another - orange because they knew it was hunting season. First, there was Riverdance.

In his hiking kilt and orange hair, there was no question why he called himself Riverdance. He had started at Katahdin at the end of June but was obviously taking his time getting down South.

Next was Nancy Drew, another young man who made the mistake of saying he had Nancy Drew detective skills.

But the hero was Cocoatoe. He appeared on the trail just as Lenny was struggling with a fallen tree. Lenny tried to saw it with his Silky Saw but it was a thick tree. He was not going to give up.

So when I saw Cocoatoe, I asked him to help. See the picture above.

Before he even knew what hit him, Lenny handed him the saw. One guy held the tree in place while the other sawed. And they got the tree down. Thank you Cocoatoe.

Cocoatoe got his name because his toes got very dry and someone suggested Cocoa Butter. It worked.

These three Southbounders are quite behind in their journey. By now, most Southbounders are off the trail. It is going to be quite cold going through the Smokies. I wish them luck.

The last three people were on a day hike from Sams Gap to Devil's Fork Gap.

It turns out that the couple on the left are visiting from Ontario. The guy's brother had emailed me about some good hikes to suggest - and I did.

I suggested the Smokies but I didn't know that the couple had a dog. They recognized me as the "guidebook writer". What a coincidence! They didn't have any orange but I hadn't heard shots all day so they were probably OK.

It was a small and busy world on the A.T.

Jennifer Pharr Davis holds the record for the fastest person on the Appalachian Trail. She beat the men's record and took almost 47 days to hike and run the 2,181 mile Trail. But you knew that.

She had been nominated as the National Geographic Adventurer of the Year.  

But we have to vote for her.

So click on this National Geographic link to vote for her.

It's one of these contests where National Geographic may have come up with the nomination but the most popular wins after that. So we have to vote for her.

She's a Carolina Mountain Club member, a woman from the Southern Appalachians and she's a hiker. The others include a skier, kayaker, and mountaineer. There's only one other solo woman, though there are male/female teams.

Jennifer has done what no one athlete has done - make me a sports fan.

I've never watched other people play: no basketball, baseball or hockey. I've gotten to a fine age without understanding football. I used to say that I'll become a spectator when hiking becomes a spectator sport.

With Jennifer, hiking has become a spectator sport with records to beat. Though I don't think I'll sit in front of a TV watching someone whizz by in boots and a pack, I'm now paying attention to trail records.

So when will hiking become an Olympic sport?

This past weekend, I celebrated a big birthday by going back to Abingdon in Southwest Virginia. The main purpose was to go to the Barter Theater.

The next day, we hiked a section of the Appalachian Trail and made a circle by also going on the Virginia Creeper Trail. The Creeper Trail is a famous bike trail but we were not the only ones walking. The fall colors were at their best. And sourwood trees were so red that they looked like they were bleeding.

We finished quite early so we drove to the top of the Creeper Trail to Green Cove Station, one of the original trail stations. Outside, there was a plaque memorializing O. Winston Link, one of my favorite photographers. I have two of his photographs, bought when he was affordable. One is Waiting for the Creeper.

Winston Link was a New York commercial photographer who saw the end of passenger trains and took on the task of photographing the trains and train artifacts. Green Cove Station had several of Link's photos including the one I have, Waiting for the Creeper. Sure enough, the tiny station and general store was where Link took the photo.

I had never made the connection even though I've heard of the Virginia Creeper for a long time. I asked a few people to sit on the bench and I reconstructe the photo. See above.

This is the link to the original photo in the Link Museum in Roanoke. I hope it works for you.

We interrupt my travelogue to announce:

After 46 days, 11 hours and 20 minutes Jennifer Davis has finally finished the 2,181 mile Appalachian Trail. She reached the end at 3:26 p.m. today.

She started South on June 15 and beat the record set by Andrew Thompson in 2005: 47 days 13 hours 31 minutes.

What is next for Jennifer Davis?

For a daily blog, see http://jenniferpharrdavis.tumblr.com/

Yesterday was another 90+ degree day.

I listened to the local news on WLOS, our local ABC affiliate and they were suggesting that we look in on the elderly and on pets. What elderly were they talking about?

I went on the Carolina Mountain Club hike on the Appalachian Trail from Jones Meadow to Allen Gap in Tennessee. We walked over 9 miles. The leader, Carroll, is 81 years old - that's the guy on the left with the bandanna on his head. All of us were over 50, some way over 50. So which elderly were they talking about?

It was hot and we were all dripping. Again the media told us to stay indoors and to curtail physical activities. It seems that the mainstream media tells us to stay indoors when it's hot, when it's cold, when the pollen is high ... But we kept on walking. Maggie was training for trip to Yosemite and carried a 30lbs backpack. She kept up with the rest of us.

We had lunch at Little Laurel Shelter and hit the real high temperatures in the afternoon. But the Turks cap lilies were magnificent.

We discussed whether we were seeing white bee balm or another member of the mint family.

At the end, Carroll and Jay, the other driver, had to pick up the car at the beginning of the trail. Carroll had brought cut-up watermelon in a cooler and we enjoyed it while they drove back up to Jones Meadow.

And we'll be back on the trail in a couple of days, no matter how hot it is.

The Appalachian Trail Conservancy Biennial Conference is over. Everyone has left Emory and Henry College. We've said goodbye and exchanged emails and said "See you in two years" at Western Carolina University.

But a committee has already been working for more than two years to plan the 39th Biennial Conference. We've learned a lot about running a conference from the hard-working folks in Southwest Virginia. We've gathered every form, every piece of paper and bit of advice that was offered to us.

And of course, we took all the signs.

This was not a trivial job. Carroll and Bruce took a truck and went back up to Emory and Henry College and loaded up all the signs and kiosks that were used at the conference. They drove back down to Asheville and placed them all in our garage. The signs will come in handy in two years and save us a lot of work and time. 

A lot of you will be asked to volunteer to lead a hike or an excursion or help in other ways. See you in Cullowhee July 19 to 26, 2013.

But I hope to see you on the trail a lot sooner.